Another fashion season has passed and with it share of surprises, covetable accessories and clothes we can’t wait to get our credit cards swiped for. And while the hair looks might not have been an immediate focus for those surveying the runways both IRL and via photos, the hair artists who created them deserve kudos for their creativity, ingenuity and finesse.
From Guido Palau’s showstopping kiss curls at Burberry to Eugene Souleiman’s gravity defying locks, here are the hair looks we loved from New York, London, Milan and Paris.
The Slick Waves At Roberto Cavalli
The glamorous look at Roberto Cavalli? Ladies who lunch (very expensively) by way of David Bowie in his ‘Thin White Duke’ phase. Hairstylist Paul Hanlon, created waves with mousse and curling tongs and then used wax at the roots for control, running through it with a wide toothed comb and then drying it with a Dyson Supersonic hairdryer to melt the wax into the hair and set the shape in place.
The Twin Braids At Prada
Wednesday Addams proved major style inspo for the gothic, slightly kooky braids at Prada. Severely centre parted, slick and sleek, these were braids that came to play. The key to the aesthetic? The precision taper at the end of each plait and lots of gel to make sure not a strand was out of place. Hairstylist extraordinaire Guido Palau and colourist Josh Woods took an extreme approach with the models, having 20 of them get their hair dyed either inky black or icy blonde for a graphic uniformity. And yes, extensions were used to achieve the extra long braids.
The Glossy Swirls At Fendi
Veteran hair guru Sam McKnight was responsible for the retro futuristic ‘dos at Fendi. In his Instagram, McKnight said, “The look at Fendi was slick perfection. Thirties waves turned into a river of glossy swirls and twist — a nod to the thirties, tied into a very contemporary natural pony low in the back.” We can see this at the go-to hairstyle ideal for parties at evening soirées, taking the place of the done to death high ponytail.
The Undone Buns At Roksanda
Sometimes you don’t have to reinvent the wheel, but merely update it. At Roksanda, stylist Jon Reyman using the Dyson hairdryer, created a lived-in, low key bun. Starting with an off-centre parting, hair was brushed back into a low, but tight bun, with selected pieces being left undone for a flyaway effect. Easy peasy and effortlessly chic for Sunday drinks with the girls.
The Sculptural Updos At Erdem
This takes ladylike hair to its extreme. Focussing on smoothness and length with the hair being brought backwards rather than up, the finishing touch was an embellished accessories nestled into the back of the head. There was something regal, but also highly modern about this style. Technically difficult to achieve we would highly recommend heading to the salon if you want to recreate this look for a gala dinner.
The Street-Inspired Kiss Curls At Burberry
Hairstylist Guido Palau is pretty much a genius when it comes to reinventing hairstyles and a great example is what he achieved at Burberry. The kiss curls that he created seemed to not to both to black and Latinx culture — think FKA Twigs — while the ‘wet’ texture was almost a homage to the rainy London weather. “It’s inspired by a much more elaborate version of youth culture,” says Palau, who also checked Art Noveau references when it came to the cool, intricate shapes that were crafted and shellacked onto the models’ foreheads.
The Floating Ponytail At Olivier Theyskens
Another hair artist we are always impressed by is English stylist Eugene Souleiman. For Olivier Theyskens’ show in Paris, Souleiman created a sharp, architectural ponytail that seemed to defy gravity, being held up purely by lots of gel, with no visible hair tie or pins. A technical and artsistic feat of epic proportions that created a feeling of lightness and extension, this was hairstyling at its best: pushing boundaries while remaining eminently wearable. Bravo.
The Twisted Chignon At Brock Collection
Elegant and sophisticated without looking too done, there was something soft and beautiful about the updo at Brock Collection. Stylist Peter Gray used Shu Uemura hair products including the Depsea Foundation to work into the hair before using the brand’s Ample Angora from roots to end. After waves were created, hair was tied into a ponytail at the nape of the neck, wrapped into a loose chignon and secured with large U-pins. To keep the style in place while keeping it touchable, Shu Uemura’s Sheer Lacquer was used to set the bun.