The mother of all collections has landed in stores. Literally. Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall/Winter 2015 offering is inspired — as most Italian men are – by Mamma. And what a tribute it is.
When the collection debuted in Milan in February, the audience was cocooned in a fuzzy tableau of maternal warmth. It began when the curtains parted to reveal a stage set featuring mothers, dressed in black silk and lace slips, with their children around them.
Then, model Bianca Balti, heavily pregnant with her second child, opened the show, wearing an embellished dusky-rose shift dress. Indeed, roses and embellishments, standard hallmarks of Dolce & Gabbana, play a key role in the Fall/Winter 2015 looks, together with lush, tactile fabrics like lace and velvet.
Understatement has never been this label’s game. But with the Mamma collection, the lavishness borders on gorgeous fecundity. The roses seemed to be almost blooming on the dresses, which took on womanly silhouettes — from flared coats to nipped waists. There were 89 looks in all, and they were all skirts or dresses. No trousers.
One extra-special touch to the collection was a selection of gowns that featured children’s crayon drawings and handwritten words. There was something particularly poignant in these frocks. They seemed to say, “Mamma, I love you”, more than words can. But in case show attendees hadn’t gotten the message, there was the soundtrack: The Spice Girls’ Mama and Viva La Mamma by Neapolitan crooner Edoardo Bennato, which was translated into 14 languages and presented as press notes.
Mothers come in all shapes and sizes. But Dolce & Gabbana’s are obviously and gloriously writ large, luscious, loud — and quintessentially Italian.
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